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The True Cost of Sustainable Fashion | What Exactly Are We Paying For?

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14 Apr, 2024

This post was originally published on Luxiders

In an era stained by fast fashion and hyper-production, sustainable brands are pioneering a way for change, introducing a series of quality, durable, and ethically-made pieces to a poorly saturated market. All of these factors – the better materials, the living wage compensations, the longevity – get totaled up into the cost of sustainable products, leveraging them at slightly higher price points when compared to the faster fashion alternatives. 

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There is a common conception that shopping sustainably – whether it be for groceries, cosmetics, apparel – is not nearly as accessible or affordable as alternative, lesser sustainable options. While there is certainly some validity to this claim – for a series of reasons we will get into below, sustainable products do tend to be priced slightly higher than counterpart products – the perceived “expense” of the sustainable market — take, for instance, fashion — only really comes into play when compounded by a context of faster fashion models. 

The growing fast fashion market has invigorated a dangerous mentality among its consumers; which is that paying $10 – or, in some cases, even less – for a dress is normal, just as wearing that same dress one time – perhaps to a gaudy sweet sixteen party or out for drinks with one’s’ friends – is normal. In reality, our casual outlook towards rock-bottom prices and single-use ideologies is not necessarily grounded – instead, it is a product of the industry’s embrace of hyper-productive models. Along with the normalization of fast fashion comes the inherent normalization of exploitation culture – both of the laborers who are tasked with the manufacture of our clothing and the environment which bears the toll of resource extraction.

Sustainable clothing, on the other hand, prioritizes ethics in addition to the quality and durability of their pieces. An overall smarter and more responsible choice, these pieces do tend to be more expensive (mostly in comparison to those aforementioned $10 dresses from brands like Shein and H&M), but worth every additional penny. Here’s why…

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Eco-Conscious Fashion

© Vanessa Serpasvia Unsplash

BETTER MATERIALS

For starters, sustainable brands typically craft their pieces from natural resources, which are collected and manufactured through labor intensive processes of farming and harvesting. Natural textiles – while priced slightly higher – are more comfortable, durable, and overall better for the planet. As opposed to synthetic fibers, natural materials – like silks and linens – are biodegradable, and therefore do not take nearly as long to decompose (synthetic fibers like nylon or polyester, both essentially crafted from plastics, can take thousands of years to fully decompose), easing the burden of landfill waste. Similarly, sustainable textiles are dyed using natural, instead of toxic, ingredients; contributing to a lower environmental pollution rate and cleaner waterways. 

FAIR WAGES

A huge part of sustainable practice is social responsibility – a factor which has unfortunately been compromised by the negligence of  fast fashion companies. The all-time low prices of fast fashion reflect the exploitative practices that make these prices possible in the first place; an estimated 2% of garment workers earn a living wage, leaving the remaining 98% somewhere under the line of poverty. Many of these factories are outsourced abroad in countries – such as Vietnam, Cambodia, and China – where labor regulations are looser, permitting contractors to blatantly violate minimum wage and overtime laws. An overwhelming percentage of employees are women aged 18-24, making this a feminist, as well as a humanist, issue. 

Sustainable brands take social responsible initiatives, partnering with ethical factories where workers are paid living wages. Fair pay for all workers involved means prices of our garments may increase slightly to accommodate this worthwhile shift. We firmly believe that no one should suffer for the clothing we wear.

LONGER LIFE-CYCLE

More so than from fast fashion companies, products from sustainable brands tend to be longer-term investment pieces. That tell-tale phrase “you get what you pay for” is particularly resonant here. As can be easily observed, apparel from brands like H&M or Chinese super retailers like Shein or Temu are poorly made from low-grade materials – they feel cheap, they rip, their threading comes loose. Since these products are mass-produced with less expensive textiles and by poorly-compensated workers, they are not manufactured particularly well or with much care. 

Sustainable brands, partially due to their material use and partially due to their concentrated methods of minimalist production, place emphasis on the quality of their items, enhancing the lifecycle of the products we wear and encouraging less textile waste. Sustainable pieces can be worn time and time again – if you’re keeping track, you get a lot more bang for your buck from pieces you can wear 20 times as opposed to pieces you can wear once or twice.

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Environmental Brands

© Aiony Haustvia Unsplash

So, while sustainable items do tend to run a bit higher in price, when you buy sustainably you are buying into a value system which prioritizes the comfortability and wellbeing of those who produce the clothing and those who wear it. Sustainability is not just a trend – it is the future direction of the fashion industry. And, as is the case with any business, supply directly represents demand. As demand for sustainable products continues to increase, prices will go down – (though production levels will never come close to that of fast fashion, and prices will probably never plummet to the concerningly low prices of faster fashion counterparts). 

Sustainable brands are helping us to redefine our relationship with our clothing. In a generation bound by the conventions of seasonality and speed, these brands are pioneering movements away from hyper-production, aiming to correct the indiscretions of fast fashion corporations. However, in order for sustainable companies to flourish, we must recognize the power of our choices and make diligent buying decisions, spending our money on clothing that aligns with our system of beliefs.

Highlight Image:
@ Unsplash, Markus Spiske

+ Words:
Tori Palone
Luxiders Magazine

Der Beitrag The True Cost of Sustainable Fashion | What Exactly Are We Paying For? erschien zuerst auf Sustainable Fashion – Eco Design – Healthy Lifestyle – Luxiders Magazine.

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From glass waste to energy-efficient bricks

From glass waste to energy-efficient bricks

RMIT University engineers have created a new type of energy-efficient brick from scrap materials.

In collaboration with Australian recycling company Visy, the engineers used a minimum of 15% waste glass and 20% combusted solid waste (ash) as substitutes for clay in their bricks.

Team leader Associate Professor Dilan Robert said about 1.4 trillion bricks were used in construction projects globally every year.

“Business-as-usual brick production produces harmful emissions — including carbon dioxide, sulfur dioxide and chlorine — and puts a serious strain on our natural resources, particularly clay,” said Robert, from RMIT’s School of Engineering.

Replacing clay with waste materials in the production of the new bricks helped reduce the firing temperature by up to 20% compared with standard brick mixtures, offering potential cost savings to manufacturers.

Team leader Associate Professor Dilan Robert (third from left) with the RMIT research team behind the energy-smart bricks in a lab at RMIT University. Credit: Seamus Daniel, RMIT University.

Importantly, test results indicated that using these bricks in the construction of a single-storey building could reduce household energy bills by up to 5% compared to regular bricks, due to improved insulation.

In addition to their energy efficiency benefits, the new bricks comply with stringent structural, durability and environmental sustainability standards, with the technology meeting the key compliance requirement of fired clay bricks set by Standards Australia (AS 3700).

“Bricks play a key role in preventing energy loss from buildings,” Robert said.

“We can also produce lightweight bricks in a range of colours from white to dark red by changing our formulations.”

Dr Biplob Pramanik, the RMIT team’s environmental engineer, said the new bricks were safe to use in construction projects.

“Our bricks, manufactured from industry waste, meet state environmental regulations,” he said.

Waste glass that the team can use in their energy-smart bricks. Credit: Seamus Daniel, RMIT University.

In Victoria, Visy recycles glass packaging back into new bottles and jars. The new bricks provide a solution for the use of fines — pieces of glass smaller than 3 mm — which cannot be recycled into bottles.

Paul Andrich, Innovation Project Manager at Visy, said the company was thrilled to find a solution for material that cannot be recycled into food and beverage packaging.

“Diverting this waste into bricks with added insulation, rather than landfill, is another way we are powering the circular economy,” he said.

The researchers now plan to expand the use of their technology.

“We are focusing on scaling up the production process to facilitate the commercialisation of our innovative bricks in collaboration with brick manufacturers in Melbourne,” Robert said.

The team is also looking to collaborate with industry to explore applications of waste material in other construction products.

Their latest research has been published in the international journal Construction and Building Materials.

Top image caption: The team’s energy-smart bricks in a range of colours. Credit: Seamus Daniel, RMIT University.

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