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How Ethical Is Calvin Klein?

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23 Apr, 2024

This post was originally published on Good on You

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Calvin Klein is an iconic American brand. Sadly, it still isn’t doing enough for people, the planet, and animals, and has received an overall score of “Not Good Enough”, falling from our middling “It’s a Start” to our second-lowest rating. Keep reading to learn more about the details of Calvin Klein’s rating.

This article is based on the Calvin Klein rating published in February 2024 and may not reflect claims the brand has made since then. Our ratings analysts are constantly rerating the thousands of brands you can check on our directory.

Calvin Klein’s ethics aren’t as crisp and clean as its boxer briefs

Calvin Klein was founded by its namesake in 1968 with a line of refined womenswear, later branching out into jeans, menswear, fragrances, jewellery and more. Before it made its iconic underwear, the brand was most loved for its denim and logo-print jersey items, and it is often noted as a leader in the minimalistic design that defined the 1990s. While it has appointed notable fashion designers to its creative helm in recent years, much of Calvin Klein’s success in the last two decades has come as a result of licensing agreements for its various product lines, notably fragrances.

Today, Calvin Klein is owned by PVH (which is also the parent company of Tommy Hilfiger), and is considered an iconic all-American brand, with sales of $9.3bn in 2022. It’s known for its coveted logo-detailed underwear, denim jeans, and highly influential—sometimes controversial—advertising (it recently broke the Internet with its campaign featuring The Bear’s Jeremy Allen White). In fact, its marketing campaigns have regularly caused contention through the years. Elsewhere, the brand’s sustainability credentials don’t look great, as its rating has fallen from “It’s a Start”—an indication of progress, to “Not Good Enough”, in our recent review.

So we had to know: how does Calvin Klein—one of the most recognisable brands in the United States, if not the world—impact people, the planet, and animals? If we care about the planet and all its inhabitants, should we shop Calvin Klein or look for alternatives? Let’s find out once and for all: how ethical is Calvin Klein?

Environmental impact

Calvin Klein is rated “Not Good Enough” for the planet. First the good news: it uses some lower-impact materials in its line, including organic cotton. It has set a science-based target to reduce greenhouse gas emissions from both its direct operations and supply chain.

And the not-so-good news? While a climate target is great, there is sadly no evidence the brand is on track to meet said target, nor does it appear to minimise any textile waste when manufacturing its products or to take actions to protect biodiversity in its supply chain.

Labour conditions

Calvin Klein isn’t making enough progress on improving labour conditions, and its score here has dropped from “It’s a Start” to “Not Good Enough”.

Some of its supply chain is certified by labour standards that help ensure worker health and safety, living wages, and other rights, and it received a score of 41–50% in the Fashion Transparency Index (a lower score compared to previous years), and the brand’s parent company PVH has signed the International Accord, which works to ensure workplace safety in the garment industry.

While the brand claims to have a program to improve wages, there’s no evidence it ensures its workers are paid living wages in most of its supply chain or that it supports diversity and inclusion in its supply chain.

Calvin Klein has also been linked to sourcing cotton from the Xinjiang region in China, which is at risk of using Uyghur forced labour, and while it claims to have taken insufficient steps to remediate, as recently as December 2023 there were reports that the brand may have inadvertently sourced from the region through subsidiary companies. You can do better for people, CK.

Animal welfare

Calvin Klein is simply “Not Good Enough” for the animals. While it does have a formal animal welfare policy aligned with Five Domains and traces some animal products to the first stage of production, it still uses leather, wool (some of it certified by the Responsible Wool Standard), down (some of it also certified by the Responsible Down Standard), shearling, silk, and exotic animal hair.

The brand doesn’t appear to use fur, angora, or exotic animal skin in its designs.

There are so many cruelty-free alternatives out there, so improving the score here is as easy as opting out of animal-derived fabrics.

Overall rating: ‘Not Good Enough’

Overall, we’ve rated Calvin Klein as “Not Good Enough” based on our own research. It falls from our middling “It’s a Start” rating in this most recent review. The brand had been making a start for people and the planet when we had previously rated it, but it still needs to address its waste and emissions issues and, at the very least, ensure payment of a living wage across its supply chain. It should also work to remove animal-derived fabrics from its products and opt for more lower-impact, cruelty-free alternatives.

Rick Relinger, PVH’s chief sustainability officer, said in its most recent corporate sustainability report (2022): “Ultimately, actions speak louder than words, so we remain committed to transparency and continue to enhance our capability to report increasingly more data on our impacts.” But this doesn’t align with the drop in Calvin Klein’s Good On You rating from its most recent review, nor does it match up with the brand’s decreased transparency, or the lack of evidence about whether it’s on track to meet its environmental targets. In 1980, Brooke Shields controversially asked “You wanna know what comes between me and my Calvins? Nothing.” But in 2024, the answer ought to be: “Ethics”.

 

Note that Good On You ratings consider hundreds of issues, and it is not possible to list every relevant issue in a summary of the brand’s performance. For more information, see our How We Rate page and our FAQs.

See the rating.

 

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Reaching net zero in the manufacturing sector

Reaching net zero in the manufacturing sector

In order for Australia to reach its goal of net zero by 2050, it needs the help of its manufacturing sector, which accounts for 10% of the nation’s carbon emissions. And the sector is pulling its weight, the Western Sydney Manufacturers Forum heard recently — developing ‘green concrete’, carbon-tracking sensors and technology which can minimise carbon emissions during beer fermentation.

More than 30 experts from universities, industry and government described multiple ways sustainability can deliver real-world impact, cost savings and market differentiation for manufacturers. The forum heard many examples, including an opportunity to reduce emissions from concrete production — which contributes around 8% of global carbon emissions, or more than aviation and shipping combined.

Professor Olivia Mirza from Western Sydney University described the initial pushback to the use of ‘green concrete’ — an eco-friendly alternative which is produced using waste materials — in the Parramatta Light Rail project.

“The initial cost for building [the light rail using green concrete] was let’s say 10 or 12% higher, but then if you do the cost-benefit analysis — less maintenance — it ended up saving 25%,” Mirza said.

The forum highlighted the importance of clear communication and education, suggesting the use of modern formats like social media platform TikTok to effectively engage different stakeholders, especially in the trades, around decarbonisation in building materials.

The aim of the event — hosted by the NSW Smart Sensing Network and the NSW Decarbonisation Innovation Hub at Penrith Panthers — was to showcase opportunities and help manufacturers and their supply chain navigate new emissions reporting requirements.

Dr Martin Ams, a product engineer at Macquarie University, said innovative optical fibre sensors are helping utilities like Sydney Water contribute to net zero by predicting concrete corrosion in wastewater infrastructure.

“Over time, concrete can actually capture and remove CO2 directly from the atmosphere through a process known as carbonation,” he said. “If you have concrete structures that are absorbing CO2 from your atmosphere, you want them to last long so you can keep absorbing this CO2.”

Dr Victor Hernandez Moreno from the UTS Centre for Advanced Manufacturing described how advanced automation and ‘digital twin’ technology can drive more sustainable production decisions for manufacturers. His team operates two mirrored beer-brewing facilities — in Sydney and Germany — that share a unified digital twin, allowing them to analyse data, enhance product quality and reduce carbon emissions.

Keynote speaker and Climate Change Authority Chair Matt Kean said advanced manufacturing in Western Sydney is poised to lead Australia’s decarbonisation efforts by electrifying industrial processes, improving energy efficiency and producing green materials like hydrogen.

“The [Authority’s] Sector Pathways Review revealed that Australia has a great shot at crafting the products, goods and services that will be in high demand,” Kean said. “As the world shifts to net zero, we must be prepared to back our entrepreneurs and innovators and remove policy and regulatory barriers that inhibit progress.”

Kean said products like renewable hydrogen, green ammonia and green metals were essential to reimagining Australian industry. “Importantly, they’re going to be in hot demand, not just domestically, but right across the globe.”

NSW Net Zero Commission principal advisor Manuel Weirich said there is lots of opportunity to reduce emissions in light industry such as manufacturers and smaller processors, which emit 45% of NSW industry emissions.

“These emissions come from things like burning gas in boilers, from engines and motors, chemical processes, calcination in bricks or in cement, and lots of other things,” Weirich said. “Some of the processes are difficult to decarbonise, but others already have solutions available … including heat pumps for water heating, electric forklifts, and better energy efficiency.  

“Manufacturing has a big role to play, to produce the clean materials, the low-emissions materials, and the products and machinery that other sectors use to decarbonise themselves.”

NSW Chief Scientist Hugh Durrant-Whyte said with investment in R&D, skills, digitisation and real-time data, and by preparing for mandatory reporting, Australia can build resilient supply chains and drive sustainable, high-value growth across all business sectors. 

“Digitisation will help identify gaps, improve performance and address skill shortages — especially in hard-to-abate industries,” Durrant-Whyte said. “Achieving net zero will benefit everyone. Small businesses can cut energy costs and preserve expertise through digitisation. Medium businesses can scale up and strengthen supply chains. Large corporations will streamline compliance, meet stakeholder expectations and drive sustainable growth.”

The Executive Director of the Advanced Manufacturing Readiness Facility (AMRF), Ben Kitcher, described how his organisation helps manufacturers adopt technologies that help them become profitable and sustainable.

“What we’re discovering is there is this mutual objective around decarbonisation which always leads back to productivity and profitability,” Kitcher said.

The forum heard that while digital literacy is strong among younger generations, manufacturing still suffers from outdated perceptions. It heard how SMEs in Western Sydney can stay competitive by embracing digital transformation, sustainability and circular economy principles. SMEs are also facing ongoing challenges in resourcing innovation and workforce development, but programs like CSIRO’s Generation STEM are stepping in with practical support through paid internships and university and industry talent matching.

“We have a lot of SMEs that come to us and say their challenge is recruitment and retention, but sometimes we’ve got some SMEs that come to us and say they don’t have the time to do this piece of work,” Generation STEM team leader Luana Caro said.

Chovil & Thake sustainability marketing specialist Hannah Welch said 45% of Australians always or often consider sustainability as part of their purchasing decision-making. She said manufacturers can leverage environmental, social and governance (ESG) data not just for compliance, but as a strategic marketing tool to attract investors and recruit staff.

Andrew Bedrossian, Manager of Renewable Manufacturing at the NSW Department of Climate Change, Energy, the Environment and Water (DCCEEW), said the Net Zero Manufacturing Initiative supports clean technology innovation and low-carbon product manufacturing, with particular focus on revitalising local solar manufacturing. He said there is growing industry appetite and significant investment interest, especially from Western Sydney manufacturers, pointing to strong potential for scale-up and impact.

“We have the world-leading IP here with some of the best brains in the business when it comes to solar,” Bedrosian said. “All the commercial windfalls are offshore. We don’t have anything here, and that’s a real shame. How can we change that?”

Image caption: Climate Change Authority Chair Matt Kean delivered the keynote speech at the Western Sydney Manufacturers Forum. Image credit: AM Visuals.

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